We put the fun back into bicycling!
Contact us at info@painlessbikeseat.com

About the Painless Bike Seat

Designing the Seat

The first step in designing our seat was to get rid of the "banana" that is causing all of the physical damage.  Not only is the " banana" gone, but the seat is actually recessed so that there is no bearing area under either the mail or female crotch areas.  This means, technically, that thee is no pressure on the internal ischial pudendal arteries.

The next step was to contour the metal seat so that is cradles the sitting area thus distributing the weight equally over the entire area.

The Springs

The seat is stabilized by four springs that are located directly under the body's ischail tuberosities ("sits bones").  The seat will remain essentially level throughout the pumping cycle thereby avoiding stress points caused by weight shifts during the pumping action.

The springs are to act as a "crush zone", the same as the crush zone in the front of your car. Plus they provide a stable platform for a seat that distributes the body weight evenly over the approximately 90 square inches of sitting area.  Many "banana" seats have as little as 10 or 15 square inches of sitting area. 

Thus, a 180 pound person has a load of 18 pounds per square inch on a typical "banana" seat, while our seat will lower the load to 2 pounds per square inch. 

In addition, the four springs in our seat provide additional shock absorption and a smoother ride when compared with a conventional seat.


The seat itself has a bottom layer of foam.  It is then covered with a neoprene rubber cover that offers the maximum UV protection to insure the long life of the seat.  The neoprene cover comes standard in black but is also available in the following colors and patterns.

Not only is the seat design key to overall comfort and prolonged ride comfort, but how the seat is mounted on the bike is also very important. Find out more about how the seat mounts on the bike.

What is "Seat Creep"?

Why move the seat? Why sit low? Or, better yet, why haven't the many seats now on the market with "crotch relief" solved the problem and taken over the market?  There are two reasons:

  1. They did not add sitting area.

  2. They did not cure "Seat Creep" and therefore are not usable.  

"Seat Creep is undoubtedly the biggest single reason all the "banana-less" seats on the market do not sell. Unless you beat the creep, they don't work.

When riding a bike, any time your foreleg gets below horizontal (as during any down stroke) your leg is actually pushing back against the seat.  Since the seat's position is fixed the result is that you actually slide forward a tiny bit. The more you ride, the further forward you get on the seat.  This condition is exacerbated when going up hill where you are putting more pressure on your leg. You end up sitting only on the front edge of the seat due to this "creep" which is very uncomfortable. On the banana seat you are constantly sliding down the "banana" putting more strain where you don't want it.

Our seat is the only seat on the market that gets rid of the "banana" and solves the "creep" problem. The basic problem is that every seat on the market is attached to the bike frame with a swivel mount located under the middle of the seat. This is more BAD DESIGNThe seat should be attached to the bike frame at the very front edge of the seat using a micro adjustable mount.

Other Recommendations for a Better Ride

Our seat allows a rider to sit up on the seat in a comfortable position which will put his center of gravity behind the place where the seat is fastened to the bicycle. This will cause the seat to slope down a very slight amount which will cause the rider's behind to slide back a slight amount exactly balancing the forward creep of the pedal action. 

Actually when these forces are in balance your backside doesnít move at all giving a very comfortable ride for as long as you wish to continue. The seat should be down as close to the frame as possible and still be comfortable. 

As we get older, we hopefully become more concerned about using the bicycle for healthy exercise, not "macho" exercise. To this end we want to sit up straight (or close to it) and be in a comfortable natural position when we ride. (Doctors would like us to have our center of gravity right over our sit bones.) 

You will want, if you donít already have them, handle bars that extend up and back towards the bicycle seat. They also have, at a very reasonable cost, "stems" (This is the piece that goes from your handle bars to the front wheel shaft. They are now adjustable.) That will help you get into a comfortable sitting position that guarantees that your center of gravity will be behind the swivel point of the seat. If you need any handle bar changes to your bike or an adjustable stem, your neighborhood bike shop will be very happy to help you. None of the parts are very expensive but getting the right sitting position, along with our seat, is the key to a comfortable safe ride.

Does this mean that the seat will do me no good if I simply put it on my bike with its straight handle bars? Such an arrangement wonít please your Dr. but it will still take all the stress off your "crotch" area which is our prime concern. But you do not, by any means, have to give up your bent over position to ride on this seat. As you get older you probably will want to sit more upright.

When we were kids and wanted to ride our bike up a hill we often stood up on the pedals to make our full weight available on the down stroke. Can you still do that with a bicycle configured as I am recommending? The answer is YES. Just do it.

I find, however, that the older I get the less my knees like the idea. The easiest thing to do is sit back and upright and pull on the handle bar to complement the down leg. This will also exercise the upper part of your body along with the legs. 

The first three years that I had a 21 speed bike I never got out of the top seven speeds. Now I sit back and use all 21 speeds if necessary to go up a long or steep hill. My knees are much happier. If you have 21 speeds, use them and enjoy. Notice on the down stroke, the knee is still bent.

How much should I ride? 

Answer: The first step is to ASK YOUR DOCTOR. The second step is Ask your doctor. (Almost certainly, the first thing your Doctor will tell you is to NOT see how fast you can go ten miles.) We are trying to get into condition and NOT setting speed records.) 

We all have different starting points. Mine was after a mild stroke. I had to ease into it, and when you are over 70 years old the progress is slow. But progress is still there. I now can do ten miles with no strain. See your Dr. and he will gladly help you outline a program. Monitoring devices for heart rate etc. are available on the Internet or from your neighborhood bike dealer.

Follow your Doctor's advice and many aspects of your life will improve as you get back in shape.